Reviews
Divine Dante
Written by Steve Brewer   
Thursday, 04 March 2010 19:27

Omaha has always had plenty of pizza. We’ve had red pizza and white pizza. We’ve had thick crust, thin crust and deep dish. We’ve never had certified Neapolitan pizza, until now.

Dante Pizzeria Napoletana has brought the most authentic Italian pizza to Shops of Legacy in west Omaha, and it’s a worthy addition to our competitive pizza scene.

 
No Finer Diner
Written by Molly Garriott   
Wednesday, 24 February 2010 20:39

If you prefer authentic, mom-and-pop type dining to slick, national chains, then a trip to Harold’s Koffee House is worth its out-of-the-way location. Located at the corner of 30th and State in Florence, Harold’s has served up homey breakfasts, hearty lunches and homemade pies and coffee since Harold Halstead opened it in 1958. It has remained a family enterprise, with his children and grandchildren working the dining room. Now deceased, Halstead’s son, Tom, and daughter, Nancy Bohnenkamp, run the Florence institution.

 
Longtime Legend
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Thursday, 18 February 2010 16:41

Even with ample wood paneling, kitschy decor, a bar in the shape of a boat and an overwhelming amount of blue-haired patrons, Joe Tess Place isn’t dingy. Co-owner Dan Falt said the place got a fresh coat of paint and a bit of a revamp in anticipation of its small-screen debut on the Food Network show “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives,” which came to Omaha in 2008 to film segments at six local eateries. Joe Tess Place was featured in an episode called “Longtime Legends.”

 
Lovin' Spoonful
Written by Phil Jarrett   
Wednesday, 10 February 2010 17:24

In the English language, few words have the breadth of “love,” ranging from lifelong devoted affection (typically reserved for significant others) to mid-range enthusiasm for things like the early work of Bon Jovi or pancakes. It is fitting that its holiday, Valentine’s Day, is presented as simultaneously encompassing confessions of undying affection and bulk packs of cartoony, rhyming, animal-themed Valentines.

Now, with the help of the organizers of the For the Love of Haiti benefit, the scope of love’s holiday is about to expand.

 
Pitch Perfect
Written by Steve Brewer   
Wednesday, 03 February 2010 20:14

The last time Willy Theisen opened a pizza joint, it became a national chain and made the owner   a rich man. The Godfather’s founder unveiled his new Pitch Coal-Fire Pizzeria in November, and Theisen may be on his way to a second success.

 
Sandwich Celebration
Written by Leo Adam Biga   
Thursday, 28 January 2010 22:37

When it comes to the Ethnic Sandwich Shop a few blocks south of the Old Market, forget the name, focus on the food.

Ethnic implies a variety of cultural fare that really isn’t offered at this red wooden shack with the yellow sign out front. Italian is the only genuine ethnic food found there. It makes sense when you know an Italian family started the joint in 1977 in a former Dairy Queen.

 
Burger Bonanza
Written by Steve Brewer   
Friday, 22 January 2010 20:21

What’s the hot trend in the local restaurant scene? Surprisingly, it seems to be burgers. Perhaps diners crave comfort and familiarity in a confusing world. Several chains have recently come to town, competing with longtime local favorites.

 
You Say Tomato
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Thursday, 14 January 2010 20:00

 

It’s January in Nebraska. At this point in winter, some of us have been snowed in up to our elbows and haven’t seen the sun lately, aside from stolen glances through frosted windowpanes. And let’s not start on the produce aisle at the grocery. The only things that are really in season right now are winter squash and root vegetables. Farm stands and markets are an ever-distant memory when faced with temperatures below zero degrees Fahrenheit. But on 156th and Center, some farmers have put up their meat, produce and other offerings for customers eager for a taste of warm weather offerings.

 
Malay My Way
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Tuesday, 12 January 2010 15:49

There aren’t many places in Omaha to get Malaysian cuisine, and even fewer restaurants serving it alongside Korean, Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese specialties. Steve Yau and his wife, Shirley Sieng, opened Crystal Jade in October 2008 to fill that niche. The restaurant lies in a completely unassuming space under the shadow of the Omaha building near 72nd and Cedar (across from College of St. Mary’s) that clearly formerly housed a Village Inn. Even the restaurant’s interior reminds diners of its previous dweller. Though passing it by would be a mistake considering its cheap eats, full plates and diverse menu.

 
Nine for '09
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Monday, 28 December 2009 20:09

It seems restaurants open and close with the changing seasons, and Omaha has seen its fair share of turnover. A few trends have sprung up during the last year. HereÕs what happened in Omaha's dining scene in 2009.

 
What About Bob's?
Written by Camille Kelly   
Monday, 28 December 2009 19:59

If your travels take you downtown around the courthouse, chances are you’ve driven by the unassuming Bob’s Grill & Café, possibly downtown’s best-kept breakfast and lunch secret.

 
Almost Home
Written by Chris Aponick   
Thursday, 17 December 2009 15:35

As sections of east Omaha have evolved into a mosaic of taquerias and small Mexican eateries, finding new favorites has become something between a hobby and obsession for me.

Various south Omaha taco haunts have fascinated me over time, but none feel as right as La Casita, the humble, homey Mexican restaurant at 1328 Park Avenue.

 
Cooking the Books
Written by Kyle Tonniges   
Thursday, 10 December 2009 19:54

Hundreds of cookbooks are published every year, and not all of them get the attention they deserve. Here’s a handful worth considering this holiday season, whether as a gift for someone on your list or for yourself.

 
Send in the Sauce
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Wednesday, 02 December 2009 19:52

Dhaba Indian Cuisine owner Aravind Gottiparty aims to serve authentic Indian cuisine in an authentic environment. Though the West Omaha venue isn't quite the roadside, thatched-roof Punjabi restaurant suggested by its name, Gottiparthy and staff go the extra mile to present IndiaÕs favorite dishes with care and precision.
 
Going Green
Written by Phil Jarrett   
Wednesday, 25 November 2009 15:59

When Mike Schall, owner of Greenbelly restaurant, brought items from his catering company's kitchen off West Center Road to a sales counter in the same location, he thought Omaha was ready for the healthful metropolitan cuisine he previously got in New York City.


Nearly invisible to foot-traffic, aside from that of the Hooter's parking lot, and without a single fried item on the menu, Greenbelly is a diamond in the rough: providing healthful, environmentally sustainable food that tastes great.

 
Traveling Tastebuds
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Friday, 20 November 2009 20:02

In August, Toyota sponsored an event at the Saturday Old Market Farmer's Market, showcasing its hybrid fleet and partnering local farmers with 12 area chefs. Paul Kulik of the Boiler Room fried squash blossoms and stuffed them with goat cheese. The UpstreamÕs Donald Buscher served a salad of beets and arugula with a mild, creamy dressing. Ryan Gish of Ryan's Bistro stacked a caprese salad on a toothpick. Elle Lien, representing the Clean Plate project made a curry, carrot and coconut soup. All of the chefs' small samplings were inspirational, creative and tasty, but I was totally blown away by Chef Clayton Chapman's rare Wagyu beef tenderloin served atop corn polenta with a tomato sauce and a sprig of greens. The dish was complex but completely complementary. It was the best thing I've eaten all year.

 
Italian on the Go
Written by Melissa Aden   
Thursday, 05 November 2009 19:05

It seems like you can't go to a restaurant these days without playing a part in the industry's ongoing psychology experiment. The paint colors are scrutinized to evoke a certain mood and the decor, lighting, music, menu layout, temperature -- all the way down to the server's attire -- is designed to make consumers want to stay a while, eat and leave, eat more, eat less, pay more, or tip more.

 
Caribbean Queen
Written by Phil Jarrett   
Thursday, 29 October 2009 13:41

 

Caribbean Delights might sound like an exotic drink order, a tasteless movie or a low-budget travel agency, but if you like spice and you like chicken there arenÕt many better restaurants.
Tucked in a strip of stores just north of Blondo on 72nd Street, Caribbean Delights offers a modest taste of island dining at an affordable price.
 
Pumpkins 101
Written by Adam Payson   
Wednesday, 21 October 2009 17:59
Every holiday has its foods and traditions, but none can match the creepy splendor of the Halloween pumpkin. Long, dried out twisty vines end in these huge orange or white or mottled gourds, perfect for roasting or for providing spooky yard and front porch decoration. And alongside the traditional round orange pumpkins are their less well-known cousins, the winter squash -- everything from the stylish Butternut squash to the just plain cool looking, huge Blue Hubbard squash. If you haven't ventured into the Halloween world of pumpkins and squash, then consider this article to be Pumpkins 101. 
Of course, you needn't be a Master Chef to experience the seasonal pumpkin and squash, but you can rely on the talents of the many masterful chefs around Omaha featuring these items on their fall and winter menus. Spezia is bringing back the Butternut Squash Risotto with grilled chicken breast, gorgonzola cheese and roasted hazelnuts. McFoster's Natural Kind Cafe is serving a variety of organic and heirloom squashes as soups, roasted or in salads. And Biaggi's Italian Ristorante serves delicious Butternut Squash Ravioli, squash-filled pasta in a brown butter and sage sauce with diced butternut squash and toasted walnuts.   
For those seeking a more hands-on approach to pumpkins, purchasing your pumpkins from the pumpkin patch is an essential seasonal experience.  In Omaha and the surrounding areas, when you say pumpkin patch, you likely mean Vala's Pumpkin Patch located off Highway 370. With about 186,000 visitors annually, Vala's is the DisneyLand of pumpkin patches.
"We're set up for families with children," explained owner Jan Vala. "We have something for practically all ages."
Although Vala's provides the large-scale attractions, a more authentic experience can be found by visiting one of the many local farms that specialize in seasonal pumpkins and produce. One example would be Wenninghoff's, south of Sorensen Parkway on Wenninghoff Road, whose pumpkin patch is only one part of their regular farm but provides family-oriented fun with a genuine working farm atmosphere. Regardless which pumpkin patch you choose, remember that supporting any of your local farms and pumpkin patches is preferable to purchasing from a grocery store or WalMart -- it's a boon for the local economy and simply a much more fun experience.
When choosing a roasting pumpkin, look for a smaller size of approximately six pounds or less. Smaller sizes provide the best flavor. Wash the outside of the pumpkin in cold water and let dry. Slice it in half and scoop out all of the seeds and stringy flesh in the center, then rub down inside and out with olive oil. Place the halves onto a sheet pan and place in a 375¡ oven for 25-40 minutes, depending on the size of the pumpkin. When your pumpkins are soft and tender, remove them from the oven and let them cool briefly. Peel the outer skin of the pumpkin by scraping it lightly with a spoon, and the remaining pumpkin flesh can be pureed for storage or immediate use. Before utilizing the pumpkin puree in traditional recipes calling for canned pumpkin, drain it in a colander or mesh strainer.
This recipe can be used for all kinds of winter squash. And according to my father, who spent his teenage years picking squash and processing it in a canning factory for a nationally recognizable label, pumpkin in a can is pretty much just a blend of whatever winter squash and pumpkin ends up in the roasting vat. Therefore, be prepared for a completely unique taste the first time you employ actual pumpkin in a recipe.
So you have roasted your pumpkin, and as you are cleaning the table you notice that big bowl of seeds and stringy flesh. Separate out the seeds and boil them for about 5 minutes in salty water, then set them out to dry. When dry, toss them with your oil of choice and set them on sheet pans in a single layer, seasoning them with salt. Roast in a 275-degree oven for about 15-25 minutes or until you hear them pop. As a personal preference, my family tends to prefer roasted butternut squash seeds, as they are smaller and crunchier.
Pumpkin and Winter Squash in the fall are a fantastic experience. Enjoy the culinary adventure, but donÕt forget that at least one of those pumpkins should be sporting a spooky smile and sitting on your front porch to welcome trick-or-treaters. 
 
Ethnic Ecstasy
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Wednesday, 14 October 2009 14:01

 

The Spanish word  Chupe, which, in English, means to lick -- as in one's fingers. That's what Peru, Mucho Gusto co-owner Myriam Atencio told me, explaining the nomenclature for the Peruvian dish chupe de camarones. Like a bouillabaisse, eaters must separate bones from meat and shells from shrimp (as is the case at Peru, Mucho Gusto) with their fingers when eating. Licking your fingers is a utility, serving to clean your hands, and is a way to get one more taste of the stew.
 
Ethical Coffee
Written by Lainey Seyler   
Friday, 09 October 2009 18:26

Aroma's Coffeehouse owner Jeff Milewski stopped by the table where I was interviewing Cultiva Coffee Roasting Co. owner Jon Ferguson about his company. I asked Milewski why he decided to change over all his coffee to Cultiva just hours before my interview. His answer was simple, "Fair trade and deliciousness."
To Ferguson, the two go hand-in-hand.

 
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