| Refreshing Fusion |
| Written by Camille Kelly |
| Tuesday, 28 April 2009 20:17 |
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Step into Irie and breathe easy. Is it the waterfall greeting you with a soothing splish-splish-splish, the 20-foot windows lining the front of the dining area, or the colors of Jamaica and the original local art decor that simultaneously make it somehow hip, exciting and soothing? It must be the combination, and seemingly odd combinations are what Irie is all about. Drew Bellinghiere, restaurant owner at Irie, has a philosophy and he lives it: Everything in the universe works together, but when you try to comprehend it all, it boggles the mind. Somehow the eclectic décor and the even more eclectic menu work together at Irie to make it truly enjoyable and a bit mind-boggling. Bellinghiere, executive chef Juston Miller, and sous chef Bill Thomson created what they call a “pub food” menu. But these three young guys with fresh ideas make extraordinary “pub food.” Bellinghiere is the front man. Miller is young, but with years of experience in the back-of-the-house, and is a self-styled chef, continually expanding his knowledge. Experimenting on a daily basis, Miller generates new ideas for menus. “Every day there’s something new going on in the kitchen and we have a new learning experience,” Bellinghiere said of his alliance with his executive chef. “Juston knows the kitchen, and I know the front of the house, and by collaborating we’re growing together. Our menu is just [getting] better and better.” Offering something for everyone, the fare ranges from Ahi tuna (as salad, sandwich or entrée), New York strip, grilled portobello sandwich, soft tacos and all the way across the gamut to hot dogs (yes, hot dogs). Choosing is tough, but here’s a little overview. The appetizers are in two categories: “regular” and “friendly”, with the “friendly” meaning that “no animals were harmed” in their preparation. The spicy chicken won ton ($9.95) is a zesty Asian-style chicken concoction folded in deep-fried won tons with a sweet/spicy chili sauce on the side. Varied flavors and textures, and a whole lot of yum, make them something to return for. The filet kebobs ($8.95), served with rice, boasted beef cubes so tender we could cut them with the sides of our forks, and the flavor was equally delectable. Some unexpected choices for “pub food” include the Ahi tuna salad ($11.95) consisting of two tuna steaks, cooked to order, on a bed of greens with a mild wasabi vinaigrette. Tacos come in a trio, hard or soft shell, served with guacamole, salsa and sour cream. Sauces, dressings, and accoutrements are made from scratch, and with panache. Attention to freshness and careful melding of flavors is evident. The fish and chips ($12.95) are a testament to Miller’s creative and caring culinary mind. If walleye had bigger brains, they’d probably organize some kind of protest at this entree being called “fish and chips.” Not the greasy Friday fish fry variety, this is a whole walleye filet tenderly awash in a Bass Ale beer batter and lightly fried. The fish is delicate, flaky and tender, and virtually melts in your mouth. Homemade tartar sauce and fresh fried potato chips come along for the ride. You’ll never think of fish and chips the same way again. The ni hao burger ($10.95 and worth every penny) is a glorious ground beef patty mixed with a roasted bell pepper, onion and garlic puree, topped with cheddar and pepper jack cheeses, grilled onion, bacon and a fried egg. How did they make a burger so sexy? “People eat with their eyes, and Juston arranges beautiful dishes,” Bellinghiere said. “I know because I see our guests’ expressions when their food arrives.” And I double-dog dare you to try the hot dogs. They’re served as “twins” on a bun with homemade toppings — great for late-night snacks. If you’re looking for a truly cosmic sonic boom try the D.O.C. & Mama B Transfusion Salad ($10.95), named for Bellinghiere’s parents and their knack for making “garbage” salad with everything but the kitchen sink. It is loaded with fixings and tossed in Mama B’s own apple cider vinaigrette. Aside from standout food, Irie’s nightclub is vying to become the best downtown has to offer with an open, airy vibe. The VIP section, instead of being tucked in a corner or in a separate room, is on the balcony above the bar overlooking the action on the dance floor. Yet another bar on the third floor is equipped with a DJ booth and dance floor for nights when the joint is really hoppin’. Bellinghiere plans to add music outside this summer and food prepared on the patio, increasing the already expansive space. , Irie, 302 S. 11th St., is open Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-1 p.m. and Sun., 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Happy hour daily, Ladies Night each Thurs., live music and DJs Fri. and Sat. nights, and monthly poetry jams. Private party room and catering available. For more information call 504.4901. |